Katharina Saurwein has repeated Lethal design, ~8A+, at Red Rock, Nevada.
Like so many others, Katharina is paying Red Rocks a visit this season and as usual she is delivering the goods:
After figuering out the beta and trying it for three days, I managed to climb 'Lethal design', a beautiful, crimpy power endurance problem. First 8a+ of the season.
She also says there will be a video soon.
Katharina is no stranger to hard bouldering having repeated dozens of 8A's and harder as well as regularly reaching the finals in the World Cup.
Katharina Saurwein is sponsored by: La Sportiva, Marmot and Petzl.
For more information, visit www.ukclimbing.com.
This is a short film where parents talk about the rewards and challenges of being the parent of an elite young climber.
For many young people, and their parents, being selected for one of the GB junior teams may be one of their aspirations; and being selected to climb for your country will almost certainly be the culmination of years of hard work to reach the required standard.
All GB Junior Team members and their parents will know that selection is also the beginning of a new set of challenges.
This short film sets out some of the challenges that families have encountered once a family member has been selected for one of the GB junior teams.
Watch this and more films on BMC TV.
To watch the video, head to www.thebmc.co.uk.
Snowdonia National Park is consulting on proposals to apply for funds to the Heritage Lottery Fund in order to create a plan and vision for the way these important mountain areas should be managed for future generations.
The National Park is seeking the views and opinions of recreational users, local inhabitants, farmers, conservationists and anyone with an interest in order to create a future vision and seek funds for the future managment of these popular Welsh mountain areas.
What is important to you about Y Carneddau and Ogwen and surrounding areas? What is the best way to appreciate and to protect these mountains? What are your concerns about the future of these areas? These are just some of the questions being asked by planners at Snowdonia National Park in advance of a series of open public consultations regarding future plans for these areas.
Some of the issues that have exercised recreational users and conservationists in the past include footpath erosion, off-road motor cycling, impact of energy developments –including power lines and hydro-schemes, over-grazing, challenge events, low-flying military aircraft and helicopters, new visitor centers, car-parking and a myriad of other issues.
The National Park is now asking "is it appropriate to put together a long term plan for Y Carneddau & Ogwen?” and is inviting those with an interest to come along to a series of open meetings and drop-in sessions to express their views.
To voice your opinion or find out more, go along to one of the following locations. There will be drop in sessions between 4.30 and 6pm with an open meeting at 7pm.
Monday 17 February: Penmaenmawr Community Centre LL34 6AB
Wednesday 19 February: Church Insitute, Llanfairfechan LL33 0AE
Wednesday 26 February: Plas y Brenin, Capel Curig LL4 0ET
Thursday 27 February: Bethesda RFC. Bethesda LL57 3NE
BMC will be attending some of these meeting to ensure that the interest of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers are heard but why not turn up yourself to have a say?
For more information, visit www.eryri-npa.gov.uk.
Join Parenting Diabetic Kids on a free afternoon of rock climbing for kids and teens with type 1 diabetes and their siblings. There will be educational sessions for parents and guardians while kids climb. Steve Richert from LivingVertical (http://livingvertical.org/) will be showing his inspirational documentary Project 365 that chronicles the 365 days in a row he spent climbing while managing his type 1 diabetes. Steve will be available for a question and answer session after the film.
Absolutely no previous climbing experience is necessary. We will have Rock Type 1 volunteers and gym staff on hand to show you the ropes. Climbing passes and gear rental are free of charge to event participants.
The event will be held at:
Rock Spot Climbing
1174 Kingstown Road
South Kingstown, RI 02879
Sunday, March 9, 2014 from 4:00 PM to 7:30 PM (EDT)
For more information, visit http://forum.parentingdiabetickids.com.
Last week, the untimely death of 43-year old Jay Renneberg stripped the California climbing community of one of its most dynamic personalities.
"A man of full-throttle passions,” in the words of his longtime friend Dave Johnson, Renneberg was once clocked doing 107 miles per hour—on a water ski. Renneberg conducted drives to the crags at similar velocities, and he balanced his responsibilities as vice president of BARE-CO., a multi-million-dollar tractor-parts company, with high-volume soloing binges at Lover's Leap, often done at night, the cracks and eyebrows of the Leap lit by the dancing beam of his headlamp.
A self-made man, Renneberg won financial independence at a young age, then went utterly destitute—"living in my car broke” as he described it—only to re-emerge in a totally different industry and win back his financial security. With casual élan, Jay could juggle fire sticks while riding a unicycle, entertain a restaurant of strangers, romp up world-class granite, dead-center a long-range bull's eye with a high powered rifle, convulse a crowded crag with hysterical laughter, and conduct high-stakes business. None of his myriad friends would have thought it unusual to find him doing several of those things simultaneously.
Despite the attention he'd given to achieving financial stability, Jay considered time his most valuable commodity. "Every day I work to own more of it,” he wrote on Facebook, with a wish that "more people shared the value that it is what you DO in life that matters, not what you have. I have difficulties remembering the specifics about a new Porsche that I owned; but I can recall the exact details of my first rock climb 24 years ago.”
Jay grew up the Sacramento area, where he lived most of his life. In 1988, as a teenager working at Sierra Outfitters, he came under the wing of Dave Stam, one of the founding members of the loosely organized Ghoulwe Mountaineering Club. (The club's oddball name springs from an accidental, beer-fueled mashup of "couloir” and "gully.”)
Johnson and Stam both remember Jay as something of a club mascot, and for more than 25 years he was a lynchpin of the club's adventurous and social activities.
In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Jay hooked up with Jon Bowlin. The two of them founded a successful business—Bungee Jumping Systems—that was at the vanguard of bringing bungee jumping to the United States. Those were wild times for Jay. He worked at a climbing store during the day; at night, he led commando bungee-jumping expeditions to the high bridges of the Sierra foothills. He made Mexico's first bungee jump—into Copper Canyon. At a Sacramento Kings' game, Jay bungeed from the roof and plucked a can of soda from the floor at the nadir of his first bounce. Dressed in a tuxedo, Jay bungeed from the end of a crane mounted to the roof of Sacramento's 423-foot tall Wells Fargo Building just before the building's completion. Bowlin BASE jumped off behind him.
Jay cut short his own BASE jumping after Bowlin's fatal accident in 1993, and in 1995 Jay vanished from the climbing scene. Few Ghoulwes saw him for the next decade. He'd gone domestic, helping his new wife, Jeanette, raise her four children from a former relationship. Jay returned to climbing in 2006. With a vengeance.
"Jay was high-octane,” says Charlie Downs, one of his regular partners. "People either instantly liked him, or else found him totally overwhelming. There wasn't much middle ground.
"When Ron Vardanega and I started hanging out with Jay again, we immediately started climbing a lot more. He brought out the best in you as a climber. He didn't necessarily push the grades, but he pushed the volume. I went from doing one route a day to doing three, four or five, the whole time laughing at Jay's hilarious banter.”
With Jeanette, Jay climbed in Yosemite, Tuolumne, the Tahoe area, and throughout the High Sierras, aiming to acquire the skills needed to climb the Nose of El Capitan, a goal they accomplished in 2009. Unfortunately, their marriage disintegrated a few years later.
Jay's enthusiasm for an objective was infectious. "Most climbers say, "Well, yeah, that could be fun, we should do that sometime,” explains Dave Johnson. "With Jay, it was like ‘Yeah, we could go this weekend, but what about now?'”
Charlie Downs had always been amazed at Jay's ability to get things done. "He'd get excited about something, and then he'd go after it like he was digging a posthole. He'd go to great depths pursuing a subject he wanted to learn about. He was an extremely intelligent guy, and I'm convinced he could have turned himself into a heart surgeon if he put his mind to it.”
After the Nose, Jay started competitive sniper shooting and as Ron Vardanega describes it, "in typical Jay style, he became so good so fast that the local shooting club amended their by-laws so that Jay could join. He hadn't been competing long enough for the previous rules. He quickly became a national competitor.”
Jay epitomized the words of Tennyson, a man who "ever with a frolic welcome took the thunder and the sunshine.” But he only ever shared the sunshine. He seldom discussed any of his life's struggles. He kept those bottled inside, which may have been the root of his undoing, for as gregarious and open-handed an individual as Jay could be, he was also prone to long disappearances, and during them, none of his friends would see him.
"If you needed help, he was the guy, but there was some kind of loneliness to him, too, in his DNA,” says Dave Johnson.
Jay died on the morning of January 29, 2014. Details of his death haven't been released.
"Jay wasn't the kind of guy to seek help,” says Charlie Downs. "In a way, he was extremely private. He really resisted anybody reaching out. He wouldn't let us touch him.”
Jay instantly charmed and engaged children, and he stayed involved in their lives. One of the many young people profoundly influenced by Jay's life is Ron Vardanega's 19-year old daughter, Kristen. Jay's death inspired her to write: "We should strive to appreciate as many days as we can, and to remember the extent of which our individual lives are valued by others. Remember that you are loved, and even if sometimes it doesn't seem like it, your ripple can cause waves.”
Jay is survived by his father, Bob, a sister, Lana Albertson, and legions of friends.
Remembrance details: there will be a visitation on Wednesday, February 5, 2014, from 4:00-7:00 pm at Mount Vernon Memorial Park, 8201 Greenback Lane, Fair Oaks, California and a funeral on Thursday, February 6 at the same location, at 2:00 pm. The Ghoulwe Mountaineering Club plans a Jay Renneberg memorial sometime this spring or early summer, probably at Lover's Leap. Details forthcoming on Supertopo and Facebook.
On Saturday 8th February 2014 we will be holding The Foundry Bouldering Open sponsored by Mammut, F-BO14. This will be a BIG one day comp with a CASH prize list of £1700 plus lots of great spot prizes. The Setters will be Rob Napier and Percy Bishton and the Chief Judge Graeme Alderson. (For those old enough to remember, Graeme was the man behind FIBO at The Foundry back in the 90's!).
The Sponsors: Mammut, Moon Climbing, Bleaustone, Bleaustone/Lapis/Axis, The Clinic, Steepedge, CragX Climbing Shop,
One qualification round of 25 problems then the top 6 men/women go through to an onsight final of 4 problems each on the wave.
The comp has Senior (18 or over on 8/2/14) and Junior age categories (age 12 years to under 18 years on 8/2/14) as well as a Team event. It is open to any climber who is at least 12 years old on the 8th Feb 2014. However, please note there will be no special junior problems set, you climb the same problems as the seniors. Teams must consist of 3 people and comprise of a mixture of both male and female competitors.
Each competitor will receive an F-BO14 competition vest or T-shirt (for juniors).
Individual Prizes (Senior M&F):
Team Prizes (per team):
With more Junior (male and female) 1st, 2nd and 3rd prizes AND spot prizes for ANY competitor!
For more information, please visit: www.foundryclimbing.com.
The Fifth Hope Valley Adventure Film Festival will soon be here!
WHEN? Sat. 8th February.
WHERE? Hope Valley College.
WHAT TIME? Activities open from 11am, films from 12:00 – 6:30pm. Andy Cave lecture at 7:30pm. Ella Kirkpatrick El Cap film and Q&A at 3pm.
WHAT'S ON? 25 films, activities, bouldering competition, art and photography exhibition, film making competition, food and drink, evening lecture by Andy cave, 6:30pm Pie & Peas!
DON'T MISS: Spectacular award winning films from ShAFF and Kendal Mountain Festival : Distilled, Cascada, North of The Sun, Petit Bus Rouge, Road to Karakol, Cave Unicycling and more!
ADVANCE TICKETS: Cheaper in advance – Adult Day Film Pass £8:50, U18 Day Film Pass £5:00, Family Day Film Pass £25:00 available on line or at OUTSIDE Hathersage.
TICKETS ON THE DAY: Tickets available on the day at reception – Adult Day Film Pass £10:00, U18 Day Film Pass £5:00, Family Day Film Pass £27:00.
ANDY CAVE LECTURE: Evening lecture tickets £7:50 in advance or on the door. A chance to see world class mountaineer and award winning author Andy Cave's ‘Miner to Mountaineer' presentation.
YOU MIGHT WIN! £1,000 of prizes in the famous HVAFF raffle!
FOOD & DRINK: Yes, plenty of great food and drink served at HVAFF. A time to meet friends and the local outdoor community.
HVAFF is organised and run by volunteers and all proceeds go to development of facilities at Hope Valley College. Proceeds of the Andy Cave lecture will be split with Bamford Primary School.
For full program information go to www.hvaff.co.uk
This week featuring Brett Wilkinson, Shane Ruprecht, Marko Grilc, Justin Mulford, Jake Schaible, Lenny Mazzotti, Brandon Monahan, Jordan Small, and Richie Conklin
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